If you know anything about the experience of receiving a cancer diagnosis, whether you've walked that path yourself or watched someone you know and love navigate it, you understand that the journey extends far beyond the diagnosis itself. From the emotional weight of receiving life-changing news to the physical demands of treatment and the often lengthy process of recovery, cancer can affect nearly every aspect of a person's life. Physically, emotionally, mentally, and spiritually, it is an experience that can be incredibly difficult to put into words.
And while there is still so much progress to be made, it is encouraging to see a growing corner of the beauty and wellness industry dedicated to supporting individuals throughout this journey through the practice of oncology aesthetics.
In fact, the inspiration behind this article came from a recent conversation with Michelle Shaw-Hashman, L.E., a brilliant skincare professional whose work with oncology patients reminded us just how meaningful the relationship between a practitioner and their clients can be, especially during some of life's most difficult chapters.
Our conversation opened the door to a much larger discussion about the unique needs of oncology patients, the importance of understanding how cancer treatments affect the skin, and the role that thoughtfully selected skincare formulations may play in supporting their comfort and well-being. It also inspired us to take a closer look at our own Herbal Skin Solutions formulations through the lens of oncology aesthetics, exploring their ingredients, potential applications, and the considerations that should guide their use.
Cancer treatments, including chemotherapy, radiation therapy, and immunotherapy, can introduce significant changes to the skin. Dryness, redness, irritation, itching, flaking, peeling, rashes, photosensitivity, and changes in pigmentation are just some of the dermatological side effects that patients may experience. Depending on the treatment, the skin may also become increasingly fragile, reactive, or vulnerable to infection.
For skincare professionals, these changes require an entirely different level of consideration when developing treatment protocols. Ingredients, modalities, exfoliation, sanitation, skin barrier integrity, and even the timing of a facial treatment must be carefully evaluated in relation to a client's medical history and current course of care.
The practice of oncology aesthetics recognizes these complexities and emphasizes the importance of specialized education, appropriate precautions, and collaboration with a client's medical team.
Why Every Skincare Professional Should Understand Oncology Aesthetics
The harsh reality is that approximately 39.5% of men and women will be diagnosed with cancer at some point during their lifetimes, according to the National Cancer Institute.
That is a staggering statistic, and one that carries significant meaning for those of us working in the beauty and wellness industry.
Even if oncology skincare was never something you anticipated incorporating into your practice, there is a very real possibility that someone who has trusted you with their skin for years may receive a cancer diagnosis during your professional relationship.
And they may want to continue that relationship with you.
For many people, maintaining familiar routines and relationships can provide a sense of comfort during a time when so much of life feels uncertain. Their skincare rituals may be among the experiences they hope to preserve, even as their skin's needs begin to change.
As practitioners, we have a responsibility to recognize when those needs extend beyond our existing education and expertise.
Pursuing specialized training in oncology aesthetics is a personal and professional decision, and certainly not a requirement for every esthetician. However, it is an area of education that we wholeheartedly encourage skincare professionals to explore. Even a foundational understanding of how cancer treatments affect the skin, which ingredients or modalities may be contraindicated, and when medical clearance or referral is necessary can help you make more informed decisions for the people who trust you with their care.
A Personal Note From Herbal Skin Solutions
Before we explore the products and ingredients discussed throughout this article, we want to extend a heartfelt message to anyone who has received a cancer diagnosis, undergone treatment, or supported someone they love through this experience.
Through our own personal experiences with people we know and love, we have witnessed just how physically and emotionally demanding this journey can be. We recognize that no two experiences are the same, and that each person carries their own story, challenges, and hopes throughout the process.
Please know that our hearts are with you.
It is our sincere hope that this article can offer a little guidance, education, and reassurance as you navigate the changing needs of your skin, whether you are exploring products for your own personal rituals or are a skincare professional seeking to better support the clients in your care.
With that in mind, we would love to introduce you to a selection of Herbal Skin Solutions formulations, explore their ingredients, and discuss the considerations that may help determine when and how they can be thoughtfully incorporated into oncology skincare rituals.
Understanding the Skin During Cancer Treatment
The human body is capable of some extraordinary things, and our skin is no exception. As our largest organ, the skin is continuously working to protect us, regulate moisture, defend against environmental stressors, and repair itself when damage occurs. Much of this happens without us ever giving it a second thought.
However, cancer treatments can interfere with some of the biological processes that allow our skin to perform these essential functions. Depending on the treatment and the individual's response, changes in cellular renewal, inflammatory activity, and skin barrier function can leave the skin feeling increasingly dry, fragile, sensitive, or reactive.
While chemotherapy, radiation therapy, and immunotherapy each work differently, understanding their potential effects on the skin can help skincare professionals make more informed decisions when developing treatment protocols.
What Does This Mean for Your Treatment Room?
Although the mechanisms behind these treatments differ, they can share an important consequence: changes in the skin's ability to maintain its protective barrier, retain moisture, and recover from irritation.
For skincare professionals, this means that even the smallest details deserve consideration. The temperature of a towel, the pressure applied during facial massage, the use of exfoliating ingredients, and the overall composition of a skincare formulation can all influence how a client's skin responds.
And this brings us to one of the most important considerations in oncology aesthetics: understanding the ingredients we introduce to the skin.
Because when the skin is experiencing significant physiological changes, ingredient selection becomes an essential part of developing skincare rituals that prioritize comfort, hydration, and barrier support.
A Thoughtful Approach to Oncology Skincare
At Herbal Skin Solutions, every formulation we create is developed with sensitive skin in mind, and that is something we stand behind wholeheartedly. However, we also recognize that the skin of someone who has undergone cancer treatment may have an entirely different set of needs, sensitivities, and considerations.
One of the most important things to understand about oncology aesthetics is that there is no universal treatment plan. Of course, this is true of aesthetics in general, but it becomes especially important when working with clients who have experienced chemotherapy, radiation therapy, immunotherapy, or other cancer treatments.
Every person's body responds differently to these therapies. Some may experience temporary dryness and sensitivity, while others may develop persistent inflammation, changes in pigmentation, impaired barrier function, or skin that reacts to ingredients they previously tolerated without difficulty.
For this reason, communication is one of the most valuable tools we have as skincare professionals. Understanding where your client is in their treatment or recovery, how their skin is feeling, and what recommendations their medical team has provided should always come before selecting a product or developing a protocol.
Although many elective aesthetic services are best postponed until active cancer treatment has concluded, supportive skincare may still have a place during treatment when coordinated with the client's oncology team. Medical clearance, careful consultation, and continued communication should always guide our decisions.
A Closer Look at Ingredients
Before exploring our formulations, we also want to address a few ingredients that may naturally raise questions, especially when working with clients who have experienced hormone-sensitive cancers.
Plant Stem Cells: Botanical stem cell ingredients, such as Gardenia jasminoides meristem cell culture, are derived from plant cell cultures. They are not living human stem cells, cannot transform into human stem cells, and do not function as human growth factors. Their cosmetic applications are generally associated with plant-derived compounds, although their suitability for oncology clients must still be evaluated individually.
Peptides and Growth Factors: Peptides are a broad category of ingredients, and their biological activity varies considerably. Some are incorporated into skincare to support hydration and skin appearance, while others are designed to interact with cellular signaling pathways. Growth-factor-related ingredients deserve particular attention in oncology aesthetics because research establishing their safety in this population remains limited.
Soy Isoflavones and Phytoestrogens: Soy isoflavones are plant-derived compounds with estrogen-like biological activity. However, applying a cosmetic formulation containing soy isoflavones is not equivalent to using a prescription estrogen patch or taking systemic hormone therapy. Absorption, concentration, formulation, and exposure all matter. While topical application generally produces different exposure than systemic administration, research specifically evaluating these ingredients in individuals with hormone-sensitive cancers remains limited. Products containing soy isoflavones, red clover, or other phytoestrogen-associated botanicals should therefore be reviewed with the client's oncology team.
Understanding these distinctions allows us to have more informed conversations with our clients while respecting the boundaries of our professional scope of practice.
Exploring Herbal Skin Solutions Formulations
With these considerations in mind, let's take a closer look at several Herbal Skin Solutions formulations and how they may fit into an individualized, oncology-informed skincare routine.
Herbal Cream Cleanser
Key Ingredients: Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, Aloe Vera, Chamomile, and Panthenol.
Oncology Considerations: A creamy, moisturizing cleanser that may be particularly helpful for clients experiencing dryness and discomfort. Contains soy isoflavones and black cohosh extract.
Recommended Use: Gentle daily cleansing on intact skin, avoiding excessive friction and hot water.
Hyaluronic Acid HMW
Key Ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate.
Oncology Considerations: With a short, hydration-focused ingredient list, this is one of our most straightforward options for addressing treatment-associated dryness. Individual tolerability should still be assessed.
Recommended Use: Apply to clean, slightly damp skin before moisturizer to support hydration and skin comfort.
Healing Cream
Key Ingredients: Aloe Vera, Safflower Seed Oil, Glycerin, Vitamin E, Tamanu Oil, and Squalane.
Oncology Considerations: A nourishing blend of humectants and emollients that may help relieve the feeling of dryness and support moisture retention. Arnica and tamanu oil may cause reactions in particularly sensitive individuals.
Recommended Use: A moisturizing finishing step for intact, dry skin. Avoid applying to open wounds or radiation-damaged areas without medical approval.
Multi-Peptide + Mushroom Eye Serum
Key Ingredients: Poria Cocos Mushroom Extract, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Hyaluronic Acid, and Panthenol.
Oncology Considerations: Combines hydrating ingredients with cosmetic peptides commonly used to address the appearance of puffiness.
Recommended Use: Gentle application around the intact orbital area for medically cleared clients who tolerate the formulation.
Sun and Moon Eye Cream
Key Ingredients: Safflower Seed Oil, Squalane, Jojoba Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, and Allantoin.
Oncology Considerations: This nourishing formulation combines moisturizing lipids, humectants, and skin-conditioning ingredients that may help support hydration and comfort around the delicate eye area. However, the inclusion of aromatic botanical oils warrants additional consideration for clients experiencing heightened sensitivity, particularly during or following cancer treatment. As always, individual tolerance and the condition of the skin should guide its use.
Recommended Use: Reserve for clients with stable, intact skin who have received appropriate clearance.
Petal Jelly Stem Cell Mask
Key Ingredients: Glycerin, Trehalose, Urea, Hyaluronic Acid, Gardenia Meristem Cell Culture, and Cosmetic Peptides.
Oncology Considerations: This formulation brings together hydrating ingredients, skin-conditioning peptides, and botanical stem cell extracts to help support moisture retention and skin comfort. Unlike human stem cells or growth factors, botanical stem cell extracts are derived from plant cell cultures and do not possess the ability to develop into human cells. However, the inclusion of peptides and urea warrants individualized consideration, particularly for clients experiencing heightened sensitivity or compromised skin barrier function.
Recommended Use: A hydrating mask option for intact skin following treatment completion and medical clearance.
Petal Stem Cell Serum
Key Ingredients: Ectoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Gardenia Meristem Cell Culture, and Multiple Oligopeptides and Polypeptides.
Oncology Considerations: This formulation features a thoughtful combination of hydrating ingredients, ectoin, botanical stem cell extracts, and peptides that support the appearance and overall condition of the skin. While botanical stem cell extracts are distinct from human growth factors, certain peptides within this formulation are associated with cellular signaling activity. We recommend consulting with the client's medical team to determine whether this formulation is appropriate for their individual circumstances.
Recommended Use: Consider only with oncology-team approval rather than as a routine first-line recommendation.
Squalane Plant Medicine Serum
Key Ingredients: Olive-Derived Squalane, Aloe Vera, Jojoba Esters, Hyaluronic Acid, and Centella Asiatica.
Oncology Considerations: This formulation combines nourishing botanical oils, hydrating ingredients, and plant extracts that help support moisture retention and skin comfort. It also contains several phytoestrogen-associated botanicals, including soy isoflavones, red clover, black cohosh, pueraria, and wild yam. While topical application differs significantly from systemic hormone therapy, we encourage consulting with the client's oncology team to determine whether this formulation is appropriate for their individual needs.
Recommended Use: Consider for dry, intact skin only when the complete botanical profile has been reviewed with the client's medical team.
Cacao Seed Softening Enzyme Mask
Key Ingredients: Cacao Seed Butter, Glycerin, Squalane, Papaya Extract, Allantoin, and Panthenol.
Oncology Considerations: This formulation combines nourishing emollients, hydrating ingredients, and comforting botanicals that help soften and condition the skin. It also contains papaya and willow bark extracts, which warrant additional consideration for clients experiencing heightened sensitivity. Because cancer treatments can leave the skin more vulnerable to irritation, we recommend reserving this formulation for clients whose skin barrier is intact and who are not experiencing active redness, peeling, or inflammation, with approval from their oncology care team.
Recommended Use: Reserve for medically cleared clients whose skin has recovered sufficiently to tolerate gentle exfoliating products.
Hydrating Mist
Key Ingredients: Aloe Vera, Chamomile, Cucumber, Sodium PCA, and Multiple Forms of Hyaluronic Acid.
Oncology Considerations: A humectant-rich mist that may help replenish surface hydration. Lavender extract and other botanicals should be considered when working with fragrance-sensitive clients.
Recommended Use: A refreshing hydration step for intact skin that tolerates the formulation.
La Vie En Rose Replenishing Water
Key Ingredients: Rose Hydrosol, Glycerin, and Monarda Fistulosa.
Oncology Considerations: This straightforward formulation features a small selection of botanical ingredients, including rose hydrosol and bee balm, alongside glycerin to support skin hydration. While these botanicals can offer a pleasant sensory experience, their naturally occurring aromatic compounds may warrant additional consideration for clients experiencing heightened fragrance sensitivity or skin reactivity during or following cancer treatment.
Recommended Use: An optional refreshing step for clients who tolerate botanical waters.
Neroli Nirvana Multi-Use Oil
Key Ingredients: Grape Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Argan Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, and Vitamin E.
Oncology Considerations: This nourishing formulation brings together a beautiful collection of botanical oils rich in skin-conditioning fatty acids and antioxidants that help soften the skin and support moisture retention. The inclusion of aromatic oils, including neroli, bitter orange, and sweet orange, warrants additional consideration for clients experiencing heightened sensitivity following cancer treatment.
Recommended Use: Consider incorporating into gentle facial or scalp massage rituals to help soften, nourish, and condition intact skin, provided the treatment is appropriate for the client's individual needs and has been cleared by their oncology care team.
Beyond the Formulation
At the heart of this conversation is something we believe deeply at Herbal Skin Solutions: everyone deserves to feel beautiful, comfortable, confident, and cared for in their own skin, regardless of where they are in life.
A cancer diagnosis can bring about tremendous changes, including changes to the skin, and navigating those changes often requires a different approach to skincare. Throughout this article, we've explored how thoughtful ingredient selection, an understanding of oncology considerations, and open communication can help us make more informed decisions about the products and treatments we recommend.
We hope that by sharing a closer look at our formulations, we've given you a better understanding of how Herbal Skin Solutions may fit into an oncology-conscious skincare routine. While no formulation can be considered universally safe for every person undergoing or recovering from cancer treatment, we believe that education, transparency, and individualized care are essential to making thoughtful recommendations.
And sometimes, the most meaningful skincare rituals are also the simplest. A gentle cleanse, a little extra hydration, or a few moments dedicated entirely to yourself can be a wonderful way to reconnect with the familiar comforts of everyday life.
For the professionals reading, we encourage you to continue expanding your knowledge, asking questions, and creating treatment experiences that welcome people from all walks of life. For those navigating a cancer diagnosis themselves, or supporting someone they love, we hope this article offers a little more clarity and confidence as you explore your skincare options.
There is so much beauty in what we do, and even more in the opportunity to share it with others. As our understanding of skin health continues to evolve, so should our ability to care for the wonderfully diverse people who place their trust in us.